Indian Heritage Inspires Milan & Paris Runways

This season, major fashion houses have ignited runway trends by drawing deep inspiration from India. The looks showcased in Milan and Paris emphasize Indian textiles, silhouettes, accessories, and even set designs—signaling a renewed global appreciation for Indian culture and craftsmanship. 1

Historical Ties to Indian Themes

Indian influences in Western couture aren’t new. Designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, and Karl Lagerfeld have previously integrated turbans, bindis, sherwanis, and Mughal motifs into their collections dating back to 2007 and 2012. Yet, despite frequent references, these inspirations were seldom credited—raising long-standing concerns. 2

Dior’s Mukaish Mastery with No Attribution

At Paris Fashion Week, Dior featured a shimmering mukaish‑embellished coat—an age‑old Lucknowi technique dating to the 3rd century. Although the piece required a dozen artisans over 30 days to complete, Dior omitted any mention of the tradition or its creators. The backlash from Indian designers and craft activists highlighted how cultural practices continue to be used without due recognition. 3

Prada’s Kolhapuri Controversy

In Milan SS26, Prada unveiled a sandal strikingly similar to India’s GI‑protected Kolhapuri chappal. Marketed merely as “leather flat sandals,” the design drew sharp criticism. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce and designers demanded accountability. Prada later issued an apology, acknowledging the Indian inspiration. 4

Kartik Research Rewrites the Script

Delhi-based Kartik Research stood out by celebrating Indian craftsmanship authentically. Their Paris show—complete with Jaipur‑woven set design and womenswear debut—featured a visual essay titled How to Make It in India. Every element, from hand‑loomed textiles to state‑weave garments, was thoughtfully credited to Indian makers. 5

Louis Vuitton’s Credited Cultural Collaboration

Pharrell Williams’s menswear show for Louis Vuitton featured overt homage to India: set naming, Marathi architect Bijoy Jain’s design, AR Rahman-curated music, and tangible nods (elephant motifs, rickshaw‑inspired bags). Unlike others, LV openly credited artists and artisans behind the production. 6

Indian Models Shine on Global Stages

Indian talent also took center stage: Nakul Bhardwaj walked for Hermès, Jainil Mehta for Louis Vuitton, Saurang Sharma for Issey Miyake, and Shubham Vaidkar for Giorgio Armani—illustrating India’s expanding influence in global fashion. 7

Trivia & Cultural Insights

• Mukaish embroidery dates back to 3rd-century Lucknow and was traditionally reserved for royalty.
• Kolhapuri chappals are geographically protected and handmade in Maharashtra since centuries.
• Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks now showcase not just designs—but also the identities and credit behind them.

As the global fashion spotlight turns to India, the critical discussion has shifted from omission to acknowledgment—highlighting a growing demand for ethical design and cultural respect on the runway.

Source: Hindustan Times